Dear
Don,
Two
small slips in my putevoditel ’, written
rapidly in the wee hours:
Par.
2, line 2 should read “tell the man
to”
Penult
par, last line should read “Harry’s Bar”
Sorry.
You know my penchant for precision.
I
hope my thing will be useful to other Nabokovians as
well, which I think is what you wanted.
All
best,
DN
-----Original
Message-----
From: nabokov
[mailto:cangrande@bluewin.ch]
Sent: mercredi, 15. janvier 2003
To: 'don barton johnson'
Subject: Montreux instructions for S.
Aksenov
Importance:
High
Dear
Don,
I was
hurriedly starting this when Guide Brian’s version popped up. I’ll leave in what may still be useful.
My
parents’ urn is buried at the Cimetičre de Clarens, av. Rambert 27. The cemetery
s a 10’ taxi ride, 15’ by bus (ask the man so stop at the Simmy T. Yare), or 25’
by foot as hiker Boyd suggests. Enter the gate on Av. Rambert (opposite the
gardener/florist). Walk straight, then take your third right. The Nabokov tomb
(which some people have trouble finding) will be the third one on your left
(modern, polished grey granite). The gardener’s phone, in case you need further
information, is 021 964 46 33. If you are accosted by a strange Russian with a
mystic’s eyes who says he knows everything about Nabokov, decline (he is a fired
assistant soccer coach trying to make a fast
franc).
If you
enter the Palace through the main, lakeside entrance from the Grand-Rue, rather
than the back courtyard (which was the principal entry during many of the
Nabokovs’ years there), you will find yourself in a modern atrium where a
posthumous statue of VN sculpted by the Rukavishnikovs and presented to Montreux
by Moscow stood until recently, awaiting the completion of its permanent,
park-like site across the street.
If you
want a personalized reception, ask for the Director, my very good friend Hans
Wiedemann. Even though he came to the Palace when Father was no longer there, he
is touchingly proud to manage Nabokov’s former residence, and named our floor of
the Cygne wing “Étage Nabokov.” If he is not there ask for Mme. Bigger, his
Publicity Assistant and another dear friend. If you would like to prepare your
visit in advance, call the management at 021 962 1212 (you may be switched
around and kept on hold, but don’t give up). And say hello to head barman
Antonio, who is one the very few people still there who knew my father well. He
will be either at the hotel bar or at Harry’s Club next door.
The
station restaurant at Caux is no longer run by my friend Helmut but is still
beautifully situated. Or stay on that little blue cog train up to the
Rochers-de-Naye (a bit over an hour from Montreux and a splendid ride) where
Father walked in summer and I ski in winter.
If you get
to